July why you put ac on top and heater on ground?, 2003 Note: The replacement of the blower pictured below was done two years and 40K miles ago. It was a nice day to work and documenting it was fun. The 1984 has 322K miles today. I have five other 240 series volvos, so I fully expect to be replacing another blower in the future.
Meanwhile I’m adding just a few notes to the text below. July 2006, June 2009, August 2011: More new links added at bottom of page. July 2011: Replaced one in a 1990. So far I haven’t found the right car to chainsaw, so this one was done like the last, except instead of taking a chair out, I removed the dash. This is easy to do and repays you in body comfort through the hours to come.
I use this re-ground kitchen knife to get under and pry up trim fasteners. Note: You may prefer to leave the seat in place, but remove the dashboard. Much of the work made more comfortable by removing the seat is accessible from the top, if the dash is removed. For additional on dash removal, see the links at the bottom of the page for photos of a heater core replacement and manual pages showing drawings of the dash mounting. Remove knee covers, console side panels, glove box and radio.
Detach console front frame at corners. Make note of ground wire connections. Remove heater control panel from console front frame and set aside frame. This step is optional, meaning you could continue with the motor replacement and work around the heater controls without too much difficulty. Disconnect the harness from the blower control switch and remove the cable operated heat control. Identify and remove the vent vacuum hoses from the vent control pushbutton assembly and set aside the heater control panel.
The hoses on my car had silk-screened numbers, but they were difficult to see, so I tagged them with tape. Remove right side vent distribution: 2 hose connections to the actuators, 2 Phillips screws, and 3 rubber support hangers. Remove center vent and distribution plumbing. Notice this piece is not symmetrical. Like right side, but I was not able to get it in or out of the dash without separating the pieces piping the defroster, side and foot vents.
Remove the 10 clips holding the blower housing halves together on the right side. As you’ve made plenty room for yourself, you can use two hands — one to pry the clip loose and the other to keep it from flying away. The clip needs to slide over the lip cast into the impeller, which means you need to pry one end up while pushing the other end toward the shaft. The shaft has a groove cut into each side. I used the hooked end of a mechanic’s pick to remove the clip in one easy motion. Note: Don’t interchange the left and right impeller blades. Whoever did that one and put this all back together wasn’t very happy.
As you can see, the shaft of my 18 year old blower motor is rusty. I needed to remove the rust with emery cloth before sliding the impeller off. Note: You can see the resistor in the photo above left. If your old motor burned up, or you have any other reason to suspect the resistor and switch, now would be the time to have the kit on hand.
I believe it is available aftermarket, but have no personal experience with it. Compare your new motor with the old. The instructions packed with my Siemens replacement part called for grinding off the mounting bosses that formed the supports for the shock mounting of the original equipment. This instruction was specific to 1981 through 1984 model years. A Dremel tool makes short work of the grinding. A left-handed individual could have done this better and faster than I did. By now you have a yardsale pile of parts removed, so it is well you clean and repair anything else in the vicinity, such as the resistor and switch, if your motor burned up.
I took the opportunity to clean the vent plumbing, clean leaves from the recirculate flap and adjust the cable on the heater control. Assemble the motor in the blower housing and connect the ground wire to a solid ground point. I used the bolt attaching the heater box support bracket to the transmission hump. Because of my peculiar experience, I would advise testing the operation of the motor before going too much further.
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At the very least, test it for noise and balance with the left inner housing and both impellers installed. The replacement motor did not turn. Removed to the bench, it would jerk and try to run if jarred. Turned out, only one of the brushes had a spring behind it. With luck, I found a substitute in the junk collection I maintain. Note: In four years I’ve not once heard of anyone else receiving a Siemens motor with this or any other specifically documented manufacturing defect.
Check each vent valve flap as you put the blower housings back together — they can easily be assembled past their stops, rendering them inoperable. As a test of leakage and operation, I used a vacuum tester to check each actuator. November 2005: Here are some links to pictorials with 240 Volvo relevancy. I am certain that we will NEVER again purchase a Ford vehicle. The dealers have all had an immediate attitude of all of the warranty being void because of the lift and 4×4 conversion. They took the van back to Ford and the problem was determined to be a stuck valve, necessitating the engine being pulled and a new head put on.
This took a number of days, and resulted in Sportsmobile getting the van back on the day we were scheduled to pick it up. Dented oil-pan, bent radiator fins, no horn – Likely in the rush to complete the repair of the stuck valve a number of things were dinged up on the van before we even obtained it. An access cover is in the cabin between the seats, clamped over the engine and transmission called the “dog-house”. Much of the engine noise seems to come through here, and the cover gets quite hot after driving for a while since it is immediately over the turbo-charger and exhaust pipes. Resonant Noise – Around 4000 miles we started to notice a resonant noise that came on about 1400rpm and tailed off around 1900rpm.
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It only happened when the van was warm, and became louder and louder over the year. Other friends we met with Sportsmobiles of similar vintage who rode in our van all commented on the noise, confirming that it was not our imagination, nor was it normal. Two dealer techs have also confirmed the noise to exist and not be expected. Steering Noise – As time went on we began to notice a hissing noise from the steering column that would go away when pressure was applied to turn the vehicle, but come back when we were tracking nearly straight. It was fairly quiet, but getting louder and rather irritating.
After taking the van in to a dealer to have the noises looked into, they swapped out the power-steering pump. They returned the van with supreme confidence that the problems were resolved and the noise reoccurred within 20 minutes of our receipt of it. Broken engine mount bolt – At one point we noticed that one of the engine mount bolts was broken. We took it to a dealer where they first said it was replaced. Tape deck stereo – The van came with an old stereo tape deck. Although others who purchased 2005 vans ended up with CD players, we ended up with an archaic tape system. Paper cone speakers – The speakers for the stereo system were standard cheap paper 6×9″ cones.
These would likely not live very long in the humid environment a camper van can become in inclement weather with the doors and windows closed and two people breathing and eating. Plus we do like reasonably good audio reproduction. Brakes were a bit on the weak side when descending steps off road with our larger tires. 5 of the size of the cooler for the equivalent Ford pickup trucks running the same engine and transmission. The cooler was also located right behind the large Ford emblem on the grill, and transmission temperatures would climb very quickly under any load.
This gave us a car to borrow and a bed to sleep in if the van needed to stay overnight. After 3 days of holding the van, the Ford dealer said that the noises we had reported were fixed, and a couple recalls were done as well. The headers had been re-torqued for the resonant exhaust noise, and the hissing was due to a faulty steering pump which had been replaced. The oil leak source was not located but they gave me some dye to put in a few hundred miles before returning so they could find the source. As the noise was terribly bothersome, and with our larger tires we were at the affected RPM more often I decided to figure the problem out myself. That evening I dismantled the exhaust system from the headers to the muffler and found that one of the mounting bolts for the turbo-charger was missing.
It was only held in place with two bolts. There was also one bolt holding a junction pipe from the header to the turbo that was cross-threaded and thus not torqued down squarely. On our trip from the North-West down to California we found that the noise was not actually completely gone, but would show up about 2 or 3 hours into each day’s drive. The noise is at a different frequency again, and will come and go in intensity after it starts, but the silence in the first few hours is quite welcome. The final resolution turned out to be one of the transmission cooler lines resting on the front frame cross-member transferring noise into the cabin because it was not clipped into the appropriate holders along its run. This probably occurred when our engine was pulled before we picked it up. Upon re-clipping the line the noise was nearly gone.
We removed the dog-house, pulled off the rubber gasket, drilled out the 4 rivets that hold the stock aluminum covered fiberglass blanket insulation, and gained access to the inside of the plastic form of the dog-house itself. 2″ closed-cell sleeping pad since it was readily available, light, and had worked well on our floor. Some contact cement held that in place quite well. We then covered all of the inside of the doghouse with self-adhesive aluminum-covered foam intended for furnace ducting. All of the seams we taped with aluminum ducting tape.
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The purpose of this was to add a bit more insulation, a reflective barrier to the noise, and to protect the sleeping mat foam from hot-spots. The result, when put back in the van, was a significant reduction in higher-frequency engine noise, and much less heat transfer into the cabin through the dog-house. We can now keep a cool soda in the cup-holders and expect it to stay cool for more than 10 minutes. Exhaust Insulation: After a few years of use we found that although the dog-house insulation mentioned above had helped, any more we could do to reduce heat in the cabin would be helpful. Some research led us to consider wrapping the up-pipes, turbo, and down-pipe with exhaust insulation.
I first painted the up-pipes and down-pipe with silicone resin spray to reduce oxygen exposure, and thus corrosion, as the pipe metal will be getting somewhat hotter under the insulation. 3 of the turbo housing, but should be better than nothing, and proved a lot more heat shielding than the small heat-shield plate on top of the turbo from the factory. I could not touch before due to heat. Heater Core Valve: One of the big issues we noticed in the summer was heat coming from the dash vents, even with the dial at full “cold”.
This was especially pronounced after the van had been off for a short while, and we started up again, or if we were driving slowly on rough roads. A bit of digging revealed the answer: the heater core always has coolant flowing through it, regardless of the position of the temperature select dial. All the dial does is direct the airflow through or around the heater core, but the heat is still pumping into the airbox. When removing all the heater hoses plumbed into the heater-core for the coolant-pre-heater we installed this valve and associated electronics. The valve is actuated by a switch on the dash that effectively turns the heater-core on or off. We can now turn all heat off in the cab if we so wish, and the benefit is quite significant, making the output of the vent and AC modes quite a bit cooler than before when off. Stereo: For the stereo we knew we wanted something that had a couple of auxiliary inputs.
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We had both the main computer in the back of the van where we would sit to watch movies, and the laptop up front that could play MP3s or give driving directions. A remote would also be nice since we would spend much of our time in the living area where getting to the dash might be a hassle. It works reasonably well, though it has trouble with some MP3s which will cause it to lock-up requiring the CD to be ejected, the radio power-cycled, and then we need to avoid that MP3 in the future. Alternator: As we be gain re-working the van in 2009, one of the issues of concern was the stock alternator. The van came with a 110Amp alternator from the factory, and the idea of increasing the output with a larger capacity unit was appealing. The van uses a 6G Ford format mounting system in a “small-case”. Some peering into the engine compartment convinced me that there was clearance for a 6G “large-case” alternator which would allow a physically bigger unit.
We found a 200Amp unit, with a heavy-duty rectifier, from a reputable alternator dealer for a few hundred dollars. RPM which was also a benefit to us when charging at idle or high-idle. The install was performed while doing a bunch of other work, but in the end the new alternator dropped right in with just a reaming out of the output cable lug for the larger output stud. A few quick tests showed it performing as desired, holding the charging system above 13. 8v with the engine at high-idle, the new air-compressor running, and about 5 amps still being fed into the house-battery bank.
Coolant Filter: When we finally returned home after being stranded for a few days due to engine failure, we determined to investigate all known reliability issues with the 6. 0L Powerstroke and address them as best we could before we had another unpleasant experience. A simple solution to this problem used on many larger diesel engines is a coolant bypass filter. As with most aftermarket kits for the Powerstroke, it was targeted at the pickup trucks, but all the necessary parts were there.