That means that the language has objects that you can give commands to. If you have a dog, you can tell your dog to “what these commands means” or to “roll-over.
If you look on the left, you will see two robots. The one on the left is called zbot because it has a big “Z” on it. The one on the right is called tvbot because its head is a giant tv. Zbot and tvbot are both objects. You can give commands to them.
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To give them commands, you first need to move your mouse inside the blue box of the Program Area and click. Then, you type whom you want to give a command to. After that, you type a period. Then, you type which command you want to give. So, if you want zbot to wave its hand, you would write, “zbot.
Make sure that all the letters are lower-case. And lastly, you should click on the Run button. Go ahead and try getting zbot to wave. Make sure you type everything exactly right. Now, try getting tvbot to wave. First, click on the Clear button to get rid of the old command. Click on Yes when the computer asks you if you want to clear your program.
Then, it’s the same as before except instead of typing zbot, you type tvbot instead. Tvbot has smaller arms, so it only waves a little bit. Zbot and tvbot know how to do lots of things. Here are some of the things you can tell them to do: “blink,” “clap,” and “jump. Tvbot does not have any legs, so it cannot jump. If you give a command to one of the robots that it does not understand, don’t worry. You can also type more than one command in the Program Area.
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The computer will follow the first command, and then do the next command, and then the next one, until it reaches the end. This list of instructions is called a “program. Your dog must think running is fun if you want to bikejor. Only dogs with a good physique or conformation could like running, others would find it too painful. Samoyeds, like to run up to a point. Other dogs don’t want to run.
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You can’t make a dog run consistently unless it has fun or satisfies a need. You are better off to teach your dogs to walk the same way you want them to run before you get on a bike. Teach how you want them to run and the commands you want them to follow. If you have problems while with the dog walking next to you at a couple of mph it is more easily corrected than with the dog 10 feet in front of you running at 20 mph.
A simple reality of bikejoring is that the bike will go wherever the dogs go. Whether you are on the bike or it is upright is uncertain, but the bike will go where the dogs go. If the dogs zigzag down the road, so will your bike. If the dogs chase squirrels and cats, so will your bike. Another fact is that if you haven’t trained your dogs to run the correct way to run and to obey voice commands immediately without question, they will go wherever they want, and the bike will follow. When you are on the bike you can not easily correct your dogs. They will jerk you around instead.
When you get on the bike you loose physical control over your dogs. Hence you must have verbal control. The dogs’ belief that you are in charge must be complete. Training must be comprehensive and fun. Just shouting “NO” is not training. The word “no” is not a particularly useful command and I use it only to stop a behavior. Generally you must redirect a behavior to have a positive outcome.
There are good books on training and professional trainers and classes if you have questions. The principles of training are the same for anything you teach your dog, so you can take any sort of obedience or other class and learn to train your dog. In general, I shoot for 90 percent praise and 10 percent or less correction. It follows from this that what I am attempting to train my dogs must be broken into tasks that are easy to do, even if by accident initially. Plan training so success is highly probable. Choose how to break tasks down, choose the time to train, the amount of time, the location to train, all to encourage success. If training is really not working, stop and rethink it.
When you find a method that works, be consistent and persistent in your training. Be goofy, be enthusiastic, praise consistently and constantly. Make your reaction to successful desired behavior obvious and reinforce it. I use a high pitched voice for praise, a medium or neutral pitch for commands and a low pitch for corrections. How much your dogs learn may vary, but make sure you make success certain.
You MUST train your dogs before you can bikejor, your and your dog’s safety depend on it. It took me a couple of months to train my first dog, and I still was thrown off the bike more than once. Now I start training them as puppies. Do not make or let your dog pull any serious weight until it is full grown. When I want to teach a directional command, I use the following steps. First take the dog through the manuover in a heel position right next to you. Then, teach the dog to do it in normal position at the end of the leash out in front of you while walking.
Then try it on a bike. Note that dogs do not normally generalize like you do. A command at heel is not necessarily the same to them as that command at the end of a leash, which is not the same as that command while on a gangline. If you have multiple dogs you can use an experienced one paired next to a novice to speed up training. Just be sure to let your experienced dog know how much you appreciate their help. For a lead dog, training a young puppy is not nearly as much fun as a real running adventure. In fact, it can be pretty annoying, so give your lead dog breaks and lots of praise.
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This also helps the puppy understand that the lead dog is doing the right thing and should be emulated. The names of the commands are up to you. I use commands that I tend to instinctively shout, because often I have to blurt a command out. The command must be given and the dogs must react within one or two seconds to prevent an accident. Use the words that work best for you and your dog. Avoid words that sound alike, especially avoid words that start the same, as much as is possible. I have read that dogs focus on consonants instead of vowels.
Not sure if that is true, but it is food for thought. I have three classes of commands. Essential implicit are rules a dog must always follow for the safety of the team. These are things your dog must know without you saying it. You must always walk and train according to these rules. Always pull the ropes tight in front of you, never allow slack without a slack command. If the ropes go slack they can tangle or get caught in your front wheel, which will cause you to be thrown from the bike.
Always stay together, never split and go around different sides of a pole or tree. Always stay on the street side of poles, mail boxes and fire hydrants. Always stay on the road or trail, don’t leave it to chase things. I teach my dogs to walk in two positions.
Heel is walking on my left side with no tension on the leash. Normal is walking in front of me with slight tension on the leash. There are a couple of ways to train this. One is to use some sort of harness for normal position and to clip the leash to their collar for heel position.
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Initially I did it that way. Now I just train them with a “heel” and a “hike” or “lead” command. Learning these two positions is important. GO, hike is the traditional word, not mush. Get off the road or trail. I use it when someone is about to run us over.
I tell my dogs what I see. They tend to react less if they know I see what they see. I say turn and they finish off with a 180. This means “Hey everyone, listen for a command” and is used in place of a dog’s name. If you can do “TEAM SIT”, it looks really cool.
Some people say to give a command once, right as you want your dog to do it. I may also say the command more than once. The problem with saying the command once is that if the dogs aren’t expecting it, they miss it. If your team has been running straight on one trail for a few miles they may be zombied out.
If it is a busy city street the dogs may be distracted by everything that is going on. You need to get the dogs’ attention before they will interpret any command. Also, if you give a command that may sound like a different command, giving it more than once gives the dogs a better chance to understand it. If I preface the command with a dog’s name, the others may ignore the command.
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If I want all the dogs to turn, this is not so good. Conversely, if I have one dog who is not where they should be, I will speak that dog’s name and then give the command for them to get back in place. Say the commands loudly and distinctly enough to be heard. In many cases I can almost whisper commands, but if we go by a noisy distraction, I may be almost shouting. Learn to modulate your voice to convey happiness and disappointment. The dog has to know everything you want to say in a few short words. In an emergency you must convey urgent instructions in a second or two.
A higher lighter pitch is good for praises, a medium, clear pitch for commands, and a lower louder pitch for correction. You must be able to correct in a deep tone and then immediately praise in a high pitched happy tone if the situation calls for it. If you speak in a monotone, this is your chance to learn something new and to use your tone of voice as a tool. Anytime a dog fails to carry out a command efficiently, it is time to retrain.
Either get off the bike and train, or train on your next walk. Training never stops and rarely waits. If you have a training problem fix it as soon as you can. If you fail to fix a problem you may have an accident all too soon.
My senior lead dog knows more traffic law than some drivers. If a dog doesn’t do what you want, don’t think of it as bad. Try to ensure your message is clear and not mixed up. There is one exception to carrying out commands immediately without question.
He can hear the cars I can’t see. If Jag baulks, we stop and talk. He has saves us from being run over by stupid drivers periodically. Learn to respect the additional senses and thought your experienced dogs bring to the team. They need continuing training to stay at the peak of their skills.
However, overtraining and burnout is a real danger. When possible, one of our weekly runs is a major run at a significant percentage of the dogs’ abilities or in a completely new location. The day after a major run we almost always take a break day and just walk a bit. We also walk a couple of times a day. Every walk is a training session.